INTRODUCTION:

From ancient time beyond memory, mankind have been borrowing abundantly from nature to care for their health, skin and hair, as natural ingredients that have preventive, protective and corrective action. The warehouse of cosmetics, nature provides such versatile natural ingredients that enhance beauty of the skin and hair.

Hair is one of the external barometers of internal body conditions. Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. The primary function of shampoo is aimed at cleansing of the hair necessitated due to accumulated sebum, dust, scalp debris etc. Various shampoo formulations are associated with hair quality, hair care habit and specific problems such as treatment of oily hairs, dandruff and for androgenic alopecia. Shampoos are liquid, creamy or gel like preparations. The consistency of the preparation depends on the inclusion of traditional soaps saturated with glycerides and natural or synthetic fatty alcohols or the thickening agents (e.g. gum, resin and PEG). Indian women use herbals such as shikkakai and reetha that are natural cleansing agents without harmful effects.

Nowadays natural sources remain attractive primarily when compared to the synthetic one, so herbal shampoos are popular with the consumer when compared to the synthetic one.¹

A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant in a suitable form- liquid, solid or powder- which when used under the specific conditions will remove surface grease, dirt and skin debris from the hair shaft without adversely affecting the user.

Ideal characters of shampoo

Ø Should effectively and completely remove the dust, excessive sebum.

Ø Should effectively wash hair.

Ø Should produce a good amount of foam

Ø The shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.

Ø Should leave the hair non dry, soft, lustrous with good, manageability.

Ø Should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair.

Ø Should not make the hand rough and chapped.

Ø Should not have any side effects or cause irritation to skin or eye.

Composition of shampoo

Ø Principal surfactant

Ø Secondary surfactant

Ø Antidandruff agents

Ø Conditioning agents

Ø Pearlescent agents

Ø Sequestrants

Ø Thickening agents

Ø Colours, perfumes and preservatives.

Surfactants are the main components of shampoo. Mainly anionic surfactants are used. The raw materials used in the manufacture of shampoo are Principal surfactants: provide detergency and foam.

Secondary surfactants: improved detergency, foam and hair condition.

Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, fenugreek, herbal extracts, Henna egg derivatives.

Foam builders: shikakai.

Viscosity modifiers:

Electrolytes: NH₄Cl, NaCl

Natural gums: Gum karaya, tragacanth, alginates

Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose

Carboxy vinyl polymers: Carbopol 934

Others: PVP, phosphate esters.

Squestering agents: EDTA

Opacifying agents: Alkanolamides of higher fatty acids, propylene glycol, Mg, Ca and Zn salts of stearic acid, spermaceti, etc.

Clarifying agents:

Solubilising alcohols: ethanol, isopropanol

Phospahates

Non ionic solubilizers: Polyethoxyated alcohols, esters.

Perfumes: Herbal, fruity or floral fragnances.

Preservatives: Methyl and propyl paraben, formaldehyde

Anti dandruff agents: Shikakai, neem, thulasi

Types of shampoo

Ø Liquid shampoo

Ø Solid cream shampoo

Ø Jelly shampoo

Ø Powder shampoo

Ø Lotion shampoo

Ø Aerosol foam shampoo

Ø Specialised shampoo:

· Conditioning shampoo

· Antidandruff shampoo

· Baby shampoo

· Two layer shampoo²

Formulation of shampoo

Ali Heyam Saad and Rasool Bazigha Kadhim reported formulation of self preserving shampoo having a low concentration of the detergent using Ziziphus spina cristi leaves with emphasis on safety and efficacy. Evaluation of organoleptic, physicochemical and performance tests were performed and compared with herbal marketed product and considered as safe.³

Sachin Dubey et al. formulated two preparations of herbal shampoo using some common traditional drugs such as bahera, amla, neem tulasi, shikakai henna and brahmi and evaluated for organoleptic, powder characteristics, foam test and physical evaluation and considered as safe.⁴

Sutar Manisha et al. formulated a polyherbal shampoo using amla fruit, hibiscus leaf, neem leaf, shikakai fruit, aloe leaf, henna leaf, ritha fruit and evaluated for organoleptic, powder characteristics, dirt dispersion, wetting time, foam test and physical evaluation and considered as safe.⁵

Gholamreza Dehghan et al. formulated a herbal conditioner shampoo using fenugreek seeds methanol extract and evaluated for physicochemical properties. It is concluded that the formulated shampoo has a good quality of introducing it to the market.⁶

Mohamed Halith et al. formulated herbal shampoo using natural ingredients with tulasi and neem. Both are having anti dandruff action. The study revealed that the anti dandruff activity of Ocimum sanctum and Azadiracta indica against strains of G+ and G- organisms and fungal organisms.⁷

Swati Deshmukh et al. formulated a herbal shampoo using aloevera, neem, shikakai, ritha, amla, brahmi and evaluated and concluded as safe.⁸

Naresh et al. formulated a herbal shampoo containing chamomile, rose and orange peel and sodium lauryl sulphate. The shampoo is evaluated for physical parameters and considered as safe.⁹

Suriya Prakash et al. formulated a herbal shampoo for its antimicrobial and anti lice activity. The natural ingredients used are neem leaf, thulasi leaf, mehandi leaf and gooseberry fruit. The prepared formulation were evaluated for its physicochemical properties, antimicrobial and anti lice activity, which was compared with the marketed products.¹

Nasrin aghel et al. formulated a herbal shampoo using total saponins of acanthophyllum squarrosum. The foaming ability of shampoo was evaluated by the Ross-Miles method and the cleansing power by Thompson test.¹⁰

Evaluation of herbal shampoo

Physical appearance/visual inspection:

The formulations prepared were evaluated in terms of their clarity, foam producing ability and fluidity.

Determination of pH:

The pH of 10% shampoo solution in distilled water was determined at room temperature 25°C3.

Determine percent of solids contents:

A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4 grams of shampoo to the evaporating dish. The dish and shampoo was weighed. The exact weight of the shampoo was calculated only and put the evaporating dish with shampoo was placed on the hot plate until the liquid portion was evaporated. The weight of the shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.

Wetting time:

The canvas was cut into 1-inch diameter discs having an average weight of 0.44g. The disc was floated on the surface of shampoo solution 1%w/v and the stopwatch started. The time required for the disc to begin to sink was measured accurately and noted as wetting time.

Rheological evaluations:

The viscosity of the shampoos was determined by using Brookfield Viscometer (Model DV-l Plus, LV, USA) set at different spindle speeds from 0.3 to 10 rpm3. The viscosity of the shampoos was measured by using spindle T95. The temperature and sample container’s size was kept constants during the study.

Dirt dispersion:

Two drops of shampoo were added in a large test tube contain 10 ml of distilled water. 1 drop of India ink was added; the test tube was stoppered and shakes it ten times. The amount of ink in the foam was estimated as None, Light, Moderate, or Heavy.

Cleaning action:

5 grams of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200 ml. of water containing 1 gram of shampoo in a flask. Temperature of water was maintained at 350C. The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute. The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and weighed. The amount of grease removed was calculated.

Surface tension measurement:

Measurements were carried out with a 10% shampoo dilution in distilled water at room temperature. Thoroughly clean the stalagmometer using chronic acid and purified water. Because surface tension is highly affected with grease or other lubricants.

Detergency ability:

The Thompson method was used to evaluate the detergency ability of the samples. Briefly, a crumple of hair were washed with a 5% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) solution, then dried and divided into 3g weight groups. The samples were suspended in a n-hexane solution containing 10% artificial sebum and the mixture was shaken for 15 minutes at room temperature. Then samples were removed, the solvent was evaporated at room temperature and their sebum content determined. In the next step, each sample was divided into two equal parts, one washed with 0.1 ml of the 10% test shampoo and the other considered as the negative control. After drying, the resided sebum on samples was extracted with 20 ml n-hexane and re-weighed. Finally, the percentage of detergency power was calculated.

Foaming ability and foam stability:

Cylinder shake method was used for determining foaming ability. 50 ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250 ml graduated cylinder and covered the cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents after 1 minute shaking were recorded. The foam volume was calculated only. Immediately after shaking the volume of foam at 1 minute intervals for 4 minutes were recorded.

Skin sensitization test:

The guinea pigs were divided into 7 groups (n=3). On the previous day of the experiment, the hairs on the backside area of guinea pigs were removed. Shampoos were applied onto nude skin of animals of groups. A 0.8% v/v aqueous solution of formalin was applied as a standard irritant on animal. The animals were applied with new patch/formalin solution up to 72 hours and finally the application sites were graded according to a visual scoring scale, always by the same investigator. The erythema scale was as follows: 0, none; 1, slight; 2, well defined; 3, moderate; and 4, scar formation (severe).

Eye irritation test:

Animals (albino rats) were collected from animal house. About 1% shampoo solutions was dripped into the eyes of six albino rabbits with their eyes held open with clips at the lid. The progressive damage to the rabbit’s eyes was recorded at specific intervals over an average period of 4 seconds. Reactions to the irritants can include swelling of the eyelid, inflammation of the iris, ulceration, hemorrhaging (bleeding) and blindness.

Surface characterization:

Surface morphology of the hairs was examined by scanning electron microscopy (Leo 430, Leo Electron Microscopy Ltd., Cambridge, England). The hair samples were mounted directly on the SEM sample stub, using double side stitching tape and coated with gold film (thickness 200nm) under reduced pressure (0.001 mm of Hg). The photomicrographs of suitable magnification were obtained for surface characterization.

Stability studies:

The thermal stability of formulations was studied by placing in glass tubes and they were placed in a humidity chamber at 45°C and 75% relative humidity. Their appearance and physical stability were inspected for a period of 3 months at interval of one month.

Evaluation of herbal powder shampoo

Solubility:

Solubility is defined as the ability of the substance to soluble in a solvent. One gram of the powder is weighed accurately and transferred into a beaker containing 100 ml of water. This was shaken well and warmed to increase the solubility. Then cooled and filter it, the residue obtained is weighed and noted.

Loss on drying:

Loss on drying is the loss of mass expressed in percent m/m. Two gram of the powder was weighed accurately and transferred into a dry Petri dish. The Petri dish is placed in a dessicator for 2 days over calcium chloride crystals. Then the powder was taken and weighed accurately to find out the weight loss during drying.

Swelling index:

The swelling index is the volume in milliliters occupied by one gram of a drug, including any adhering mucilage, after it has swollen in an aqueous liquid for 4 hour. Accurately weighed 1 g of the powder and transferred it into glass stopper measuring cylinder containing 25 ml of water. Then it is shaken thoroughly at every 10 minutes for 1 hour. After that it was kept for 3 hours at room temperature. The volume was measured in ml.

Angle of repose:

It is defined as the maximum angle possible in between the surface of pile of powder to the horizontal flow.

Methods:

i. Funnel method.

ii. Open – ended cylinder method.

I Funnel method:

Required quality of dried powder is taken in a funnel placed at a height of 6 cm from a horizontal base. The powder was allowed to flow to form a heap over the paper on the horizontal plane. The height and radius of the powder was noted and recorded.

II Open - ended cylinder method:

Required amount of dried powder is placed in a cylindrical tube open at both ends is placed on a horizontal surface. Then the funnel should be raised to form a heap. The height and radius of the heap is noted and recorded.

Bulk density:

Bulk Density is the ratio between the given mass of a powder and its bulk volume. Required amount of the powder is dried and filled in a 50 ml measuring cylinder up to 50 ml mark. Then the cylinder is dropped onto a hard wood surface from a height of 1 inch at 2second intervals. The volume of the powder is measured. Then the powder is weighed. This is repeated to get average values.

Foaming index:

One gram of the powder was weighed accurately and transferred into 250 ml conical flask containing 100 ml of boiling water. Then it is warmed gently for 30 minutes, cooled and filtered and make up the volume to 100 ml in standard volumetric flask. This extract is taken in 10 test tubes in a series of successive portion of 1, 2, 3….10 ml and remaining volume is made up with water to 10 ml. Then the test tubes were shaken in longwise motion for 15 seconds at speed of 2 frequencies / second. Then the tubes are allowed to stand for 15 minutes. The height of the foam was measured.^3-11

CONCLUSION:

Globalisation is the need of today and the world market will open for all by 2005. The world is also moving towards herbal medicines for health care, health foods and for cosmetic purposes including hair preparations. India is rich heritage for cultivation and production of herbal medicines due to its diversified climatic conditions. The present paper emphasizes on composition, types, methods of evaluation, also a brief review on herbal shampoo formulations.

REFERENCES:

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2. Formulation and evaluation of various cosmetic and dental product. Pharmaquest. Pharmaquest.weebly.com/upload/ 9/9/4/2/9942916/formulation_evaluation_of_cosmetic_pdts.pdf

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6. Gholamreza Dehghan Noudeh, Fariba Sharififar, Payam Khazaeli, Ehsan Mohajeri, Javad Jahanbakhsh. Formulation of herbal conditioner shampoo by using extract of fenugreek seeds and evaluation of its physicochemical parameters. African Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmacology 5(22); 2011: 2420-2427.

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9. Naresh Gorantla, Sai Prasad K, Thimma Reddy VT, Ragadeepika J, Hajarabi T, Hindustan Abdul Ahad. Formulation and evaluation of herbal shampoo containing chamomile, rose and orange peel. Pharma Research Library: International Journal of Medicine and Pharmaceutical Research 1(2); 2013: 192-197.

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11. Ashok Kumar, Rakesh Roshan Mali. Evaluation of prepared shampoo formulations and to compare formulated shampoo with marketed shampoos. International Journal of Pharmaceutical sciences Review and Research 3(1); 2010: 120-127.

Received on 02.09.2013 Accepted on 21.11.2013

Asian J. Pharm. Ana. 3(4): Oct. - Dec. 2013; Page 153-156